Body garment and method of manufacture



May 1935. H. A. GOAS I 2,000,073

BODY GARMENT AND METHOD OF MANUFACTURE Filed April 21, 1932 3Sheets-Sheet l I r I' g: 0 I

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2O 2O 'INVENTOR 2.3 Harry A. 5555 ATTORNEY May H. A. GOAS 2,000,073

BODY GARMENT AND METHOD OF MANUFACTURE Filed April 21, 1932 3Sheets-Sheet 2 INVENTOR Harry A. [5055 BY ATTORNEY May 7, 1935. 'H. A.GOAS 7 2,000,073

BODY GARMENT AND METHOD OF MANUFACTURE Filed April 21, 1932 3Sheets-Sheet 3 INVENTOR Harry A. 5055 BY @MaM I ATJ'ORNEY UNITED STATESPATENT OFFICE BODY GARMENT AND METHOD OF MANUFACTURE Harry A. Goas,Schuylkill Haven, Pa, assignor to lllilkls Kayser & 00., a corporationof New Application April 21, 1932, Serial No. 606,556 4 Claims. (Cl.66-176) This invention relates to knitted undergar- Figure 1 is a viewof the tubular knitted maments and to the method of manufacturing theterial out to produce a number of lower garsame, and relates moreparticularly to ladies ments; upper and lower garments made fromseamless Fig. 2 is a view of a crotch piece;

or tubular knitted material, having regularly ar- Fig. 3 is a viewshowing one of the parts of 5 ranged uniform sections of alternatelylocated F g. 1, but folded approximately along the centre loose andtight knitting, and also to a method in 3- o g. of producing bothgarments from tubular ma- Fig. 4 is a similar view, but showing thefinished terial to locate the tight or close knitting at the garment;

waist and also below the hips. Fig. 5 is a view similar to Fig. 1, butshowing 10 One object of this invention is to provide a the tubularmaterial cut for the production of bifurcated undergarment cut from asection of upper garments or vests; tubular knitted material to providea closely F g- 6 is a View Of the fi d V folded knitted section at thewaist and similarly knitted approximately along the line 6-6 of Fig. 5,and

sections around the limbs while providing an finished ofi ready for use;15 intervening portion of loose or elastic knitting Fig. 7 is a frontview of the upper garment or to fit around the hips. A further object isto vest on the body; and, so cut the tubular material at the waist lineFig. 8 is a similar view of the lower or bifurto provide the desiredfullness at the back of cated garment. 4 the garment. The strips oftubular material shown at Figs. 20

Still another object of my invention is to pro- 1 and 5 both comprisespaced sections of loose vide an upper garment or vest having tight ortuck stitches of uniform dimensions alteror closely knitted sectionslocated at the waist nating with uniform sections of tight or plain andbelow the hips so as to cling closely to the knitting; and while thedrawings showby way body, having an intervening portion and a porofillustration or exampledifierent dimensions 25 tion above the waistsection both formed by loose in these two strips, it will be understoodthat the or elastic knitting to accommodate the hips and upper and lowergarments may both be made the bust respectively; and a still furtherobject from a. strip shown at Fig. 1 or from a strip of my invention isto produce the seamless or as shown at Fig. 5; but it will be noted thateach tubular knitted material in lengths comprising al strip essentiallycomprises loose sections In which 30 ternately arranged tight and looseknitting, so are uniform throughout the strip and are arthat bothgarments may be produced from maranged alternately with tight sectionswhich are terial knitted on the same machine. also of uniform dimensionsthroughout.

A still further object is to produce a tubular In the production of theseamless or tubular or seamless knitted material with alternately,arknitted material shown at Figs. 1 and 5, a circular 35 ranged sectionsof plain and tuck knitting to knitting machine having dial and cylinderneedles produce the relatively tight and loose portions, is preferablyemployed, although other suitable and to form the plain sections all ofuniform types of circular knitting mechanisms may be dimensions, to formtuck sections all of uniform employed, and automatic means of the knowndimensions, and to produce the tubular material type are provided forthe automatic manipula- 40,

on automatically operating circular machines tion of the dial cams inorder to change from without any change in the yarn fed to the needlesplain to tuck knitting and to change again from for the two differenttypes of knitting. tuck to plain at the proper times to produce uni-With these and other objects in view, my inform sections IIJ of tuckknitting interposed bevention consists in the novel construction of thetween uniform sections ll of plain knitting, so 45 lower bifurcatedgarment and the upper garment as to produce a length of tubular materialin or vest, and in the method of producing the same which the sectionsID are relatively wide and as hereinafter described, illustrated in theacloose while the sections l l are relatively narrow companying drawingsand particularly .pointed and tight, and in which both sections have theout in the appended claims, it being understood desired elasticity orstretch to closely lit the parts 50 that various changes in the form andproportions of the body to which they are applied. In the and in minordetails may be made without deproduction of the material composed of thesecparting from the spirit of the invention or sactions |0-l I, I e pfly Preferably a Circular knitriflcing any of the advantages thereof.ting machine of the type in which eight yarns are In the drawings,successively fed to the needles and means of 55 the usual well-knowntype are provided in order to change from tuck to plain knitting and tochange back from plain to tuck knitting to produce the desired form offabric, with alternately arranged loose and tight sections, withoutvariation in the feed of the yarn to the needles.

Referring particularly to Figs. 1 to 4 inclusive, the material is outalong an inclined line l2 through tight sections H, so as to provide adeep portion l3 to form the back of the waist section of the garment anda shallow portion i l to form the front portion of the waist section inorder to give increased fullness at the rear of the garment and the linel2 passes through the fabric in such a manner that the part l3 at oneside of the line is opposite to a part i 4 at the opposite, sidethereof, so that the desired shape is obtained without any wastematerial. The next tight sections l I in the fabric are out along thelines [5 passing transversely through the centre of these sections, soas to provide uniformly dimensioned parts Hi to form the cuff or lowerextremity of the leg portions of the bifurcated garment. As shown at thelower part of Fig. l, the left-hand edge of the tubular fabric is slitfrom the lower edge l5 to a point I1, while the opposite edge is slitfrom the same line l5 to the point H. The material is then foldedapproximately along the line 3-3 as shown at Fig. 3, so that the legportions are formed with their inner edges loose and with the rearopening higher than the opening at the front. The waist portions formedby the line l2 are then provided with an elastic band or strap l 8, Fig.4, to fit snugly around the waist. The lower extremities of the legportions are then folded inwardly along the line l9, Fig. 3, so as toform the double cuff 20, Fig. 4, of tight or closely knitted material.The inner edges of the leg portions are then completed by the insertionof the crotch piece 2|, Fig. 2, which preferably consists I of twothicknesses of the knitted material, which the crotch piece extendshigher at the back than at the front of the garment, and thus givesadditional fullness at the rear.

Referring to Figs. 5 and 6, the tubular material is out along the lines25 and along the lines 26, while the upper left-hand edge is slit fromthe line 26 to the point 21. Each blank bounded on its lower edge by theline 25 and on its upper edge by the line 26 is then foldedapproximately along the line 66 of Fig. 5 to form the vest or uppergarment, which is finished off by means of overcast stitching or theequivalent thereof 28 along the lower edge, by the application of abinding 29 around the openings below the arms, and by the application ofa binding or band 30 which is fastened along the cut edges at the-frontand back of the garment and forms loops 3| to serve as shoulder strapsfor the support of the vest.

It will thus be seen that the upper garment or vest and the lower orbifurcated garment are both made from the same or similar tubularmaterial, and in both garments the loose or tucked portions serve toaccommodate the hips, while the tight or plainly knitted portions arelocalized at the waist and around the limbs below the hips, so that bothgarments fit snugly to the contours of the body, while in the case ofthe vest a loose or tucked portion also serves to fit closely around thebust.

I am aware that in the manufacture of knitted underwear it has beenheretofore proposed to construct the body of the garment from tubularknitted material specially provided to localize at the waist line of thewearer a section of tight or plain knitting, while the parts above andbelow are of loose or tucked knitting to give the necessaryaccommodation for the wider portions of the body; but it has not, so faras I am aware, been known to produce both upper or vest garments andlower or bifurcated garments from a tubular strip of knitted materialcomprising uniformly arranged tight or plain knit sections of uniformdimensions alternating with loose or tucked sections also of uniformdimensions, and an important feature of my invention is the employmentof standard tubular or seamless material of uniformly arranged sectionsso as to give maximum production at minimum cost.

In the case of the lower or bifurcated garment the tubular material isso cut that there is no waste material, while in the production of theupper garment or vest the waste material between adjacent blanks islargely utilized in the formation of the crotch piece for the bifurcatedgarment.

Although the drawings and the above specification disclose the best modein which I have contemplated embodying my invention, I desire to be inno way limited to the details of such disclosure, for in the furtherpractical application of my invention many changes in the form andproportions may be made as circumstances require or experience suggestswithout departing from the spirit of the invention within the scope ofthe appended claims.

What I claim is:-

1. A method of producing knitted body garments which comprises knittinga continuous tubular fabric with a multiplicity of alternately arrangeduniform loosely knit sections and uniform tightly knit sections, theloose sections being all of similar dimensions and the tight sectionsbeing also of dimensions similar to each other, cutting the doublethickness of the tubular material substantially transversely of thelatter to form tubular blanks but in such a way that one of the cutedges is at an angle to the other, slitting at least one edge of theblanks partway of its length to form a unitary one-piece garment, andfinishing off the end of the relatively tight portion of the knittingbelow the hips.

2. A method of making a bifurcated undergarment which comprises knittinga continuous tubular fabric with uniformly dimensional relatively loosetuck portions interposed directly between relatively tight portions ofuniform dimensions throughout the length of the fabric, cutting thedouble thickness of the tubular material through the tight sections toform tubular blanks, one

of the cuts being transverse to the tubular mafinishing off the tightsections at the waist and below the hips in the garment.

3. A knitted undergarment formed from a blank cut from a tubular webhaving annular uniformly spaced loosely and tightly knitted sections,the loose sections being all of similar dimensions and the tightsections being also of dimensions similar to each other, said blankcomprising an intermediate loose section which is adapted to enclose thehips and two integral tight sections at each end of said loose section,one of said tight sections having increased depth at the back andforming the waist of the garment, the other tight section being cutpartway of its length and folded inwardly to form relatively tightportions to enclose the limbs just below the hips and an inserted crotchpiece connecting the leg encircling portions and extending to the backof the garment to produce, in cooperation with the tight portion havingincreased depth at the back, increased fullness therein.

4. A knitted body garment formed from a blank cut from a tubular webhaving annular uniformly spaced loosely and tightly knitted sections,the loose sections being all of similar dimensions and the tightsections being also of dimensions similar to each other, the blank beingformed by cutting the double thickness of the tubular materialsubstantially transversely of the latter but in such a manner that oneof the cut edges is at an angle to the other, said blank comprising twoloosely knitted sections for the bust and hips, the loosely knitted bustsection being slit part way of its length, a tightly knitted section forthe waist between and integral with said two loosely knitted portionsand another tightly knitted portion integral with the lower edge of theloosely knitted hip encircling portion, said tubular blank beingfinished off at the top.

HARRY A. GOAS.

